Welcome to Queretaro, my home base for now! Querétaro is one of the smaller states in Mexico, but it has really surprised me with the variety of natural beauty that it holds! Perhaps the stand out natural feature of Querétaro is the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve, which is one of the most biodiverse regions in Mexico, which is one of the most biodiverse countries on earth! (Can you tell I’m an environmental science teacher in Mexican schools?)
Heading north toward Jalpan from the city of Queretaro, it's quickly evident as to why the reserve is so diverse... you enter in the dry semi-desert, ascend to the chilly, pine-covered Pinal de Amoles, and then drop a little more in elevation to the green HOT and humid Jalpan. If you continue to Xilitla one more hour (check out my blog post about it), you get rainforest! It's pretty remarkable how quickly you change different climates as you venture through the Sierra Gorda, and on that note be prepared with all kinds of layers.
GETTING AROUND
Unfortunately, since the Sierra Gorda is mostly based off of one very curvy mountain road, the bus is not the easiest to get around this region HOWEVER as I live locally, I have scoped the public transportation so you don’t have to! About every hour, there is a bus that heads towards Jalpan (northbound) and one towards Queretaro (southbound) and you’re in good hands because the bus drivers are used to picking up and dropping off people along random points in the road on this route. Travel like the locals!
If you’re able to rent a car, and don’t mind some sketchy drivers and curves, it’s definitely the best way to see everything in a short amount of time! Otherwise, there are plenty of affordable tours (starting around $50 USD) that leave from the city of Queretaro and visit most these spots in one very long travel day. I find these either on Viator or searching on Facebook.
CUATRO PALOS
About 1 hour up the mountainous curves, you’ll come across the first spot- Cuatro Palos- which has what some people consider to be the most beautiful view in Mexico! The view of the valley below, often paired with mystical clouds, makes this one of the most infamous views in this region of Mexico. Many folks try to get here for sunrise to maximize the view and colors, so don’t expect to have it to yourself on a weekend
If you wanted to attempt to get here without a car, you would need to get off on the side of the highway and walk about an hour OR call a local ride . Instead we went with my friends and a rental car which was still a bit of bumpy off-roading. We managed to get out there in the afternoon and it was still gorgeous without the infamous cloud cover--- the cost per person is 80 pesos ($5 USD), you will walk 1km each way to the viewpoint, and you get your own guide!
PUEBLO MAGICO, PINAL DE AMOLES
Next up, you’ll run into the newest pueblo magico, Pinal de Amoles. Right away you’ll notice the change in climate— cool and foggy pine forests everywhere! This pueblo is known for the pines, for it’s traditional huapango dance, and for its eco-tourism as it is located within the biosphere reserve. You can easily enjoy this pueblo for a half-day to explore its quaint streets.
Some humble little highlights have been grabbing a coffee at this beautiful corner cafe, visiting the free museum (it has the protected axolotl!), and taking in the view from the mirador and Pinal de Amoles letters. This is also a great spot to book a tour from a local agency! The cozy, cool weather will make you want to grab a nice hot chocolate or coffee and read a book-- I recommend eating at a restaurant overlooking the main plaza and church for an authentic experience.
CASCADA DE CHUVEJE
If you keep going north about 20 minutes, you can’t miss Cascada de Chuveje, a stunning 30 minute hike and cold waterfall that feels like a hidden oasis. The water here is turquoise and the pools are mostly empty because most people shy away from the cold water. You can spend a couple hours here or spend the night at the local campground and enjoy the pretty views around you. While the waterfall is really beautiful, my favorite part was the little freshwater pools along the hike and I couldn't help but find my own with no people and feel like a little forest fairy :)
To get here on transport, you can get off the public bus on the side of the highway and walk about 45 minutes, passing a few food stalls and pulque spots. I was definitely the only person that walked in and I loved it and even made a small dog friend (says a lot given I'm scared of dogs)!
If you drive, you will have to drive a few km on dirt until you get to the campground and entrance. I believe the entrance was 80 pesos per person ($5 USD).
PUENTE DE DIOS
Right around the corner, you can also visit Puente de Dios, a short hike over footbridges and turquoise water that takes you to some cool caverns. I haven't had the chance to go yet and have heard mixed reviews because it gets really crowded and you have to hire a guide. But on the other hand, I am glad the locals are doing their part to keep tourism responsible here.
JALPAN
Congrats, you made it to the heart of the Sierra Gorda. Jalpan is the biggest town (small city?) in the region and thus it is definitely a worthwhile spot to spend a day and night. Once again, you will feel the change in climate as you descend into a green and humid valley. Jalpan is also a pueblo mágico, so there are plenty of touristic activities to check out!
Your first stop should be the town center, which has some nice food and artisan stands and is of course, dominated by the pretty cathedral. The church in Jalpan is beautiful and ornate, and is in fact 1 of 5 Franciscan missions that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site! (The other 4 are scattered in more hard to reach parts of the Sierra Gorda, but are surely worth the journey, especially if you have a car!) You can enjoy the inside and outside of the church and the accompanying museum. While the 5 missions are iconic symbols of the Spanish colonization and the beginning of Junipero Serra's evangelization up through California, they have the ugly consequences of almost entirely wiping out the local Pame people, which today are very few and the culture has almost been totally lost.
As you move on from the plaza, if you're in the mood for a tasty brunch or lunch, Kawa Bistro is my favorite spot. They has baguettes, salads, and yummy iced coffee for my cheugy friends.
Next up, if you want to enjoy one of the few bodies of water in this region of Mexico, the Jalpan dam is a nice place to sit lakeside, rent a kayak, or birdwatch as it is a reserve for migratory bird species. I couldn't totally figure out if swimming was allowed here (I took a small dip) but I don't think it is recommended due to the slippery and sketchy sand bottom and lack of lifeguards.
Other local highlights that I haven't checked out yet (due to my lack of vehicle) are some cool caverns called"Cueva de los Riscos" just 10 minutes from Jalpan, and an underrated and FREE archaeological site, Tancama, originally built by the Chichimecas.
And of course, if you want to continue your trip up north from here, you can go just another 90 minutes and find yourself in Xililta, San Luis Potosí, another beautiful pueblo magico and of my favorite places yet in Mexico!
If you find yourself in this region of Mexico anytime soon, don't be shy and reach out so I can help you plan your Sierra Gorda adventure!
