Now that I have shared with you my takes on Mexico’s other big cities like CDMX, Monterrey, and Queretaro, it is time to share the city of my roots: Guadalajara, Jalisco!
Although I am American born and raised, my grandparents are native to smaller towns outside of Guadalajara. The Jalisco culture heavily influenced their lives and my upbringing, as I grew up speaking Spanish. I was exposed to the regional food, mariachi, and dance, and I am very proud to call it my heritage!
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In 2015, I had the wonderful opportunity to spend the summer living and volunteering in the center of Guadalajara through an organized program with Projects Abroad. I was still a minor at the time and didn’t have a smartphone, so it certainly limited what I could see but I still got to know the ins and outs. I have been back since as an adult to see the city with fresh eyes.
Odds are you have probably heard of the city of Guadalajara from a touristic perspective, it tends to be hit or miss! For one, some people think there is not much to do in this city. Outside of the centro, you have to get a little more creative to navigate this sprawling city, the third biggest in Mexico. However, not only is this city of Tapatíos full of culture, life, arts, and food, it is also an excellent base to seeing nearby tourist destinations in this region of Mexico. Oh and did someone say, Tequila?
GETTING AROUND
Guadalajara is big and sprawling. If you want to move within the region, you can take a bus from the Central Camionera Vieja.
If you are looking to move longer distances (like anywhere more than 2 hours away) head to. the Central Camionera Nueva.
Within the city, you can also take the metro or bus, or Uber is relatively affordable.
WHERE TO STAY
Colonia America
In 2022, this was voted as the coolest neighborhood in the world! Impressive architecture, an eclectic layout, close to the centro, shaded streets, and funky cafes and restaurants are what distinguish this place. Frankly, we thought the vibe in 2024 was somewhere between abandoned and soon-to-be gentrified, but it mostly has to do with the historic buildings that were built by the wealthy in a past century and are now being repurposed into more commercial and public spaces.
Zona Centro
A sure way to properly see any Mexican city, you won’t regret staying in the historical center. While the days get hot and sunny, this area is super lively at night with plenty of live music and vendors filling the many public plazas and bringing people together.
Tlaquepaque
If you are looking for a pueblo magico within a city, look no further than Tlaquepaque! There are several pretty churches, artisan booths, and tasty restaurants to try around here. Guadalajara centro is only a short Uber or taxi ride away, but staying in Tlaquepaque gives you the feeling of being in a smaller pueblo while still very accessible to the rest of the city.
SEE THE CITY CENTER
In your first day in Guadalajara, dedicate your time to exploring the centro historico.
The Palacio del Gobierno is the state capital building filled with important history, as well as several giant murals painted by Jose Clemente Orozco. Entrance is free!
Hospicio Cabanas has a small fee to enter, or you can go on Tuesdays for free! This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a massive historical orphanage that has been transformed into a museum. You can spend the whole day walking the pretty outdoor corridors, or getting lost in the giant hall entirely painted in murals by Orozco.
Make sure you make a stop at Mercado San Juan de Dios. This is the largest indoor market in Latin America with a little bit of everything! While I remember it once teeming with artisan goods, the prices have gone up and a lot more of the stuff for sale is cheap and imported rather than local handicrafts.
(If you want handicrafts, you're better off heading to Tonalá, an eastern zone of the city.)
Check out the Teatro Degollado, the famed performing arts space. In the summer I lived in Guadalajara, I got to attend a free violin concert here and paid to see the premiere ballet folklorico group in Guadalajara! It is beautiful from inside and out!
STROLL COLONIA AMERICANA AND CHAPULTEPEC
After a short walk from the centro to the west, you will stumble upon Templo Expiatorio and the facade of Universidad de Guadalajara. These two famous landmarks are right next to each other in the urban center, and are conveniently located halfway between the centro historico and the trendy Colonia Americana. The Templo Expiatorio rivals the big cathedral in the center of the city with its beauty and architecture.
Walk a few blocks more west and you will find yourself nestled in Colonia Americana, an upscale neighborhood and perfect place to grab a coffee in a plant-filled cafe. I recommend you try to visit this area in the early evening and grab dinner here, then head onto Avenida Chapultepec to party.
Chapultepec is a long main road with tall buildings, pumping nightlife, hipster cafes, chain restaurants, and it is fairly commercial. However, it is a nice place to stay with fun markets and dance parties popping up in the pedestrian strip in the middle of the boulevard.
TAKE DAYTRIPS TO TONALA AND TLAQUEPAQUE
These two neighborhoods in the eastern side of the city are a staple for any first time visitor.
Tlaquepaque, as mentioned above, gives you the chance to see a pueblo magico in the city! El Parian, the large covered plaza in the center, fills up with live music and dance late in the evenings, from mariachi, ballet folkorico, and Apache dancers.
Tonalá is known as the artisan capital of Mexico, and you can spend all day shopping the tianguis for leather, pottery, textiles, street food, etc etc.
You can easily move around on bus or Uber to get to these further neighborhoods, and they are great to combine together for one day as they are on the same side of the city!
GET OUT TO SEE THE GUACHIMONTONES
AND here we have some rare photos of Baby Katia, the first time I really solo traveled abroad! The Guachimontones are a fun archaelogical site just about an hour out of Guadalajara, comprimising of several small mound pyramids and an informative museum. They are over 1000 years old and belonged to the Cultura Teuchitlan.
Way back when, I had this site practically to myself and loved being able to enjoy these grassy green mounds for the It's definitely worth the trek, just be sure to head to the Central Vieja to get your ticket to the town of Teuchitlan. If I could do it pre-smartphones, you shouldn't have any problems!
VISIT NEARBY PUEBLOS MAGICOS
Tequila
Perhaps more known than Guadalajara, Tequila is a pueblo magico with the namesake liquor. It definitely is beautiful and quaint beyond all the alcohol hype. (As you can imagine, I didn’t visit here while I was only 16 living in Mexico!)
Did you know that only 6 states in Mexico can produce the agave plant and call it tequila? Any agave grown outside this zone can only be sold as ”distilled agave.”
I got the chance to visit Tequilia with my boyfriend’s family so we certainly weren’t looking for the crazy kind of tour with unlimited shots (but if that’s your vibe, go fo it!) For a more relaxed, artisanal, family run and high end distillery, visit La Fortaleza (Los Abuelos) distillery. We got to try a bunch of tequila and tour the grounds in a beautiful historic hacienda. Just make sure to reserve in advance, especially on the weekend!
To get to Tequila, it’s about 1 h 15 min drive from Guadalajara, a 2 hour bus ride, or you can take the Jose Cuervo Express train to get there and let the fun begin!
Cocula
One of the most recent additions to the pueblos magicos is Cocula, Jalisco. I am lucky enough to originally be from this pueblo, the heart of mariachi music! My Mexican grandparents grew up in the countryside around Cocula and I still have extended family that lives there, so I have had the privilege to visit several times over the years.
If you enjoy the likes of Vicente Fernandez and other ranchero tunes, you would appreciate this humble town that birthed the regional mariachi music. Make sure you stroll the plaza, buy some ice cream (elote, or corn, is my personal fave), and stop by the beautiful mariachi museum. Like most pueblos magicos, visit on Sunday to see Cocula at its liveliest!
Ajijic
This lakeside town is among the most popular day trips along Lake Chapala, just an hour south of Guadalajara. Did you know that the biggest expat community in Mexico is actually here in Ajijic, a pueblo full of American retirees? While I haven’t had the pleasure to visit, other blogs hint that the place is beautiful, tranquil, and cultural. I hope to visit sometime this summer to see for myself!
IN SUM
Guadalajara is a chilled place to spend a few days, and base yourself as you explore this region of central Mexico known as the Bajío. It definitely gets hot out there and you will likely get stuck in traffic, so I prefer more its surroundings than the city itself.
Let me know what you thought in the comments, or if you want to add anything else! I will leave you with a photo of a torta ahogada, a must-try dish in this city.
