If you are looking to get off-the-beaten path , El Tajin archaeological site in the state of Veracruz is one of the most fabulous places I’ve found in my 2+ years based in Mexico.
This expansive site is full of short but architecturally complex pyramids dating back to the 900s and 1000s. Because it is relatively isolated, the tourists that come here often come exclusively to see the UNESCO World Heritage of El Tajín and it’s neighboring pueblo, Papantla.
Veracruz is a state full of color, lively music, jungle, Gulf coast beaches, the highest point in Mexico, and it is even home to what is believed to be the oldest people in the Americas, the Olmecs. I was so stoked to finally see a glimpse of Veracruz in my first time in the state, with my mom, after dancing to Veracruz music all my life :)
GETTING HERE
The reason that so few people make it out here is because Veracruz state is a whole bunch of jungle and mountains with long, long roads from point A to point B. That being said, I don’t think getting here is really too bad on public transit as long as you don’t mind a couple bus rides.
From Mexico City, you can take about a 4-5 hour bus ride to the city of Poza Rica, Veracruz.
Alternatively, I came from the city of Queretaro on a 5 hour sprinter van service.
From the city of Poza Rica, you don’t wanna stick around long. There isn't much to see in this oil town, we simply stayed the night because we found a cheap Airbnb and got in late.
From Poza Rica, take a colectivo taxi leaving all the time, all day long out to Papantla pueblo magico. From Papantla, you can either hire a private taxi from 150-200 pesos to El Tajin, or look for another colectivo heading to the ruins.
Alternatively, you can get to El Tajin directly from Poza Rica for a taxi costing about 200-250 pesos, but I would recommend the Papantla route so you can also see the pueblo magico that claims fame to the ruins.
Obviously, driving this route with a rental car will be much more of a breeze, but I don’t think it’s necessary with all the transportation options available.
SEEING PAPANTLA PUEBLO MAGICO
Most the year, Veracruz gets hot and humid pretty early in the day, with heat becoming intolerable by the afternoon. With that in mind, you may want to prioritize getting to the ruins by 9 AM opening time, then come back to Papantla to explore.
We did it backwards and saw Papantla briefly in the morning so we could still arrive to El Tajin by 10 AM.
We loved the town garden and gorgeous kiosko, the chaotic but lively streets and market, and we even chatted a bit with one of the voladores.
Did you know? This pueblo magico is famed not only for having El Tajin pyramids, but also because of the flyers or voladores that swing upside down from a pole in a traditional dance. If you have ever been to Mexico City or Puerto Vallarta, you may have seen them perform!
In general, I recommend you stay the night in Papantla (instead of Poza Rica) if you are coming out to El Tajin, because a pueblo is always safer, more cultural, and generally more easily navigable than a city!
VISIT EL TAJIN
Like most Mexican archaeological sites, El Tajin opens at 9 am and has 90 pesos entrance fee. When we walked in, we were amazed to have the place practically to ourselves!
We came prepared with enough water, snacks, and sunblock to walk around 2.5-3 hours in the sun to fully enjoy the site, and I recommend you do the same. There are a few snack and water vendors inside the site, but better to be safe than sorry and stay fully hydrated.
You’ll see so many kinds of ruins, from short simple pyramids overgrown with grass, pyramids that have not been fully excavated and leave much to the imagination, and the piramide de los nidos, which describes the nesting pattern seen on the sides of the most iconic pyramid. Did I mention we almost had it to ourselves and on a Saturday no less?
Not only do the small crowds mean that you can get better photos, but you can also actually just enjoy the natural area and soak in the feeling of being in such a magnificent space. This site had the most ball courts of any other archaeological site in Mexico!
Unfortunately, going without a guide leaves a lot to the imagination, as there are no signs throughout and very spotty service to find your own historical info online. Wikipedia doesn’t say much either, so if you’re a big history buff you’ll want to consider hiring a (Spanish speaking) guide at the entrance.
All in all, we had a fantasic half day exploring Papantla and El Tajin and headed out shortly after to continue on our adventure. I'm in weekend warrior mode right now y'all...
THINGS TO DO NEARBY
If you do want to spend a bit more leisure time now that you're out in this corner of Veracruz, you may want to continue one more hour to the beach of Tecolutla. Don't expect pristine Pacific beaches, but you can find a relaxed vibe and beautiful mangrove tours.
If you head back to Poza Rica and head an hour north, you can find Tuxpam, a small port city with its own beaches. I was told it may even have surfable waves depending on the season...
We stopped through Xicotepec de Juarez on the way back, a pueblo magico about 2 hours away in the state of Puebla. This is a famed coffee region and had the most beautiful terrace restaurant for an evening coffee.
We ultimately ended up staying the night in pueblo magico Huachinango also in the state of Puebla, but not so much on the tourist map.
IN SUM
This place is a journey but worth every step of the way, my mom and I said the same! I highly recommend visiting this place to any traveler that wants an adventure and isn't opposed to using a bit of Spanish and unexpectedness to see it through.
Comment below if you something caught your eye or if you have questions!
