Okay, at this point I was admittedly realizing I was breezing through the islands way too quickly! But it gave me this one sentiment that I’ve heard from other travelers: that it’s good to leave some things undone, which gives you a reason to return. On Sao Miguel, I still have to see most the island and there are 5 other islands I didn’t even get to visit in the archipelago!
I had quite a late flight to Pico and just barely squeezed by the security because it’s questionable if my week old PCR test still qualified me to be there… regardless, there are only two daily buses between the airport and the town I was staying (Sao Roque) but I lucked out and got the last one of the day and saved a 20 euro taxi ride! If you find yourself in Pico, just try to time it with the buses or tbh rely on hitchhiking. This island does not have many buses (literally two a day) so you’re gonna have to make it up as you go.
Pic on the left is my hostel like whaaaa?
My hostel was insane— its like the most scenic building in Sao Roque, this stunning convent with an incredible Pico rising up in the background. Because I arrived so late, I had to do a quick grocery run but sadly the kitchen here was closed due to covid, so I was eating canned peaches and non perishables for several days…. It had an included breakfast, but alas I never stuck around long enough in the morning long enough to take advantage (classic). Why did I come to Pico though?
The volcano, Pico, is the highest point in Portugal! I had a bit of a disappointing setback when the weather for the one day I was there was predicted to be pretty poor— the mountain is really dangerous in rain or fog, and the Mountain House at the trailhead won’t really let you go up, nor will you get the stunning views from the top. Further, I thought you were strongly encouraged to go with a guide (reading online can be deceiving!) and all the tours were booked out. So what did I do? I bought the permit on my own a mere 10 hours before sunrise, and dialed every taxi driver on the island till I found one to pick me up at 6:30 AM the next day (with a hefty cost, but still cheaper than doing the tour so I win).
I absolutely love the operation they run at the Mountain House, because they gave me a tracker so they had a GPS on me the whole time which made me feel much safer. Further, I was once again blessed by my All Trails Pro account so I always felt safe. Pico is Class 4 hiking, which means you have to scramble at points with your hands, and it can get so cloudy that they actually have 47 numbered checkpoints that you follow so you can stay on trail. All these things just made it an extraordinary experience. Yes, it was hard, but they typically say hikers do it in 7 hours, and I’m proud to say I clocked 5 hours 15 min roundtrip WITH 30 minutes at the top subtle flex.
I hiked for a whole hour as the sun rose, completely alone! Many hikers actually camp at the top so they can be there for sunrise, which I imagine is unreal. I didn’t have time or money to do that, but I loved my way of doing it as well as I watched the sunrise as I climbed. Passing above the clouds was incredible, and I didn’t even need a jacket the whole time! I summited by 10 AM and just stopped for a quick few photos. This last pointy part was the scramble, really a bit like bouldering to get to the top with 360 views of the crater and Atlantic and nearby islands. I wanted to really book it down knowing that bad weather often comes in the afternoon, so I basically ran down volcanic rocks and somehow I did not twist my ankle (however, 10 days later my ankle be feeling a little sore sooooo). I totally did not want poles because I was going the speed route, but I would probably recommend poles for the average human. Sure enough, it started to get super cloudy and rainy in the last 800 meters and this was actually the sketchiest part. My knees ached but I was so happy to be back and have a little pastel de nata snack. If you recall, there were no actual meals for myself on this island
I refused to pay another 35 euros to return to my hostel, so I bummed around until I met a lovely Canadian couple with Azorean ancestry that decided to take me on the backroads down the island. I got dropped off at the main town in the island, Madalena, which is hardly a town, and was able to really maximize my short time on Pico by taking a half hour ferry to nearby Faial island.
Failal was incredible! It’s mostly just the city of Horta, which is so stunning and reminds me a lot of the vibes in Avalon on Catalina Island. It has everything you need in the most perfect and walkable size, and it has a breathtaking view of Pico just across the water. I only spent 2 hours in Horta because I had to catch the last ferry back, but it was the perfect amount of time to run around to the main swimming beach, see some popular sights, and get a feel for the culture. If you find yourself on Pico and you want a cultural experience, just come to Horta because Pico is pretty dead in terms of city sights.
Horta, Failal-- peep Pico popping up above the clouds on that last pic!
I finished my day off with a quick little swim at the natural swimming pool by my hostel and a stunning sunset. Caught an early flight the next morning back to mainland Portugal but wow what a whirlwind! I am so thankful for having learned about these islands and made the trek out there. I am so impressed and touched by the beauty of the nature there and cannot wait to return to such tranquility. Please hit me up if you ever go, I got recs for you!