Baja California Norte and Surf (BCN, BCS) are notorious getaways for the Californian fed up on surf crowds. While every single break from SF to SD is going to have a line up of at least 100 people on a good day, it's possible you could just find your own wedge just south of the border and get some of the best waves of your life. I have long been compelled to drive south to catch some good waves, but the threat of ~Tijuana~ and El Chapo + the cartel have always stopped me (there was also that one time I was supposed to go with my dad and my mom took away my passport. so there's that).
Alas, I ended up in San Jose del Cabo (neighbor to the frequented Cabo San Lucas) because I wanted a cheap flight home, and lo and behold there is a direct Alaska Airlines flight from San Jose del Cabo to San Jose, California! Woohoo. Further research led me to discover that August is the best time for SJ del Cabo, because the waves are clean and big and fun (much of Mexico is not the same at this time of year...) If you're from California, August is a painful month for surfing. The flattest waters you've ever seen. So, I have now decided for every August of the rest of my life in California I will be making the trip down here to keep my surf cravings satiated.
Alright, gonna clarify this from off the bat, this place can hardly pass as Mexico. In the water and on the street you're going to find a 50/50 ratio of actual Mexicans to gringoes. And gringo prices, my goodness. And the lack of Spanish anywhere. It was definitely a bummer after passing through places like the culturally rich state of Oaxaca. Nevertheless, I was not in Cabo for tourism, no I was only there for the waves and boy did they deliver.
As a tourist destination, almost every accommodation at the tip of Baja is going to be an all-inclusive resort. Like it's gross. It meant I had to walk along the hot sand for literally miles just to access the road, because the passage was blocked by another fancy shmancy hotel. I was so lucky in finding the literal closest Airbnb to the surf and it happened to be the cheapest nightly rate. Best of all, said Airbnb was a freaking RV parked on my hosts property. Van life for days. Best Airbnb I've ever been in. I shall not even link it here because this property shall be my little secret..... but if you my fellow surfer bro are itching to do a Cabo surf trip, hmu if you know what I'm saying.
Alright, onto the surf break, which for me was The Rock, a right hand reef break with the occasional left. Yeah reef! So scary to me and other CA kids that never have to worry about hitting bottom. It was gorgeous though. The water was so clear and reef so close that I think I saw the colorful fish better than if I were snorkeling. Pretty surreal to be in warm, clear blue waters after a lifetime of murky brown/green/blue cold water where you could never in a million years see to the bottom. Coming into the week, I was pretty sketched out looking at the surf forecast which had a huge predicted spike due to some stormy action. Luckily, I think the wave just perfectly hit my comfort zone, and my mom captured THE wave of my life™ on camera. Fortunately, I was able to practice for a few days on smaller surf (3-5 feet) before the 8 foot sets rolled through. That time let me get comfortable on the Wavestorm and then THE GREATEST BOARD DEAL of all time, a $200 Patagonia Fark with quad fins in mint condition! Shaped by Chouinard's son Fletch! Unreal brother, talk about Let My People Go Surfing.
After catching the aforementioned wave of my life™, I wholeheartedly decided I never need to surf a bigger wave than that because I am a SCAREDY CAT and DON'T WANNA DIE and I am PERFECTLY HAPPY topping out at 8 foot waves thank you VERY MUCH. The surf got smaller from that point onward and I had so much fun and a huge learning curve thanks to the surf cam feature on Surfline, which a couple surfers reminded me that I can rewind the footage and I got to watch back every wave! For the first time I was really able to bottom turn AND top turn and I am so happy with how much I progressed as I came to know the break really well. The crowds were unbearable for me by 9 AM, but the heat/direct sunlight was normally too much for me by 8:30, so I consistently paddled out around first light at 6:30 AM to have some tranquil surfing, and of course a second sunset session if the wind didn't pick up too much.
It's literally not even big I'm just not sendy, thanks!
Surprise surprise, the two weeks I spent in SJ del Cabo were really only about the waves. Otherwise I just vibed extra hard in my RV with the AC on full (the Mojave desert is like the hottest place in the world so do not judge) in between surf sessions, did a lot of reading, a little cooking, and even watched some TV on their Netflix (if you know me, that is HUGE). I cannot say there were many highlights beyond surfing, but let's see what I can recall:
I did a fun morning surf trip to Nine Palms, about an hour drive out of SJ on a bumpy, dusty dusty road. You're greeted by a beach, some dusty desert campers, donkeys, and literally nothing else. Unfortunately, my friend took me here on a rather small day so I didn't see it at it's best (it was more longboard conditions). It was still a fun time trying to navigate all the submerged rocks, and it was fascinating how many people were in the line up given this wave is so off the beaten path.
While my mom was briefly in town, we attempted to see the culture that SJ del Cabo has to offer, but I was majorly underwhelmed. The upcoming artsy downtown area is peak gentrification like you've never seen it--- we're talking souvenirs that cost ten times as the going rate in a normal artisan market. And don't even get me started about getting around. Hopefully wherever you wanna go is accessible by Ruta del Desierto, the main bus line, because if not, you're gonna be walking several miles in the baking desert sun.
I checked out Cabo San Lucas for the day because it was right there and I had to give it a chance. But man it was badddd vibes. I can't believe so many Californians go there to vacation, I literally couldn't tell you what it has to offer. I'm not a big Cancun girl but I think the Yucatan is infinitely better than this desert resort town that just happens to be on a big port. I'm sorry for such hater vibes, but San Lucas had truly nothing for me. They speak to you in English, the prices are ridiculous, and the main part of town basically feels like they just brought Las Vegas outdoors? Idk. And I don't think there are really any surf breaks here. After reading my negative review, if anyone feels compelled to show me a nicer side of Cabo, I am all ears. I did get a 4 dollar Mexican blanket though so that was the highlight of my daytrip to Cabo.
I got a nasty coral reef cut on my second to last day and got pretty nervous so took a break from surfing in my final day in Mexico. In that time, I finally sent all my postcards, did some errands, and discovered what I think was the nicest part of town in SJ del Cabo, all along Calle Valerio Gonzalez. I didn't spend much time there, but there were a bunch of cute cafes and services all around! You still have to Uber here though from whatever beachside accommodation, because it is rather far inland.
And lastly, this was also a good destination for anyone to go for a nice long run. Between miles of beaches, the hot temperatures, and canyons carved out by rivers long ago, there are lots of good places to go for a jog. The waves are also really big and shorebreak-y along most of the beach, so it's pretty fun to just run and listen to the ocean work her magic.
That about wraps up the summer of a lifetime, surfing all over Mexico! After a long dry desert spell in my two weeks in SJ, the sky finally gave us a deluge as I was waiting for my ride to the airport, resulting in sopping wet Katia and wet luggage, too. The beaches closed down (or maybe just had a curfew?) for COVID the same evening I left, so I think I left at the most perfect time. Do I have much positive things to say about it? Not so much. But is it worth it for the waves? Heck ya fam. We all need somewhere to go in August, and this place is IT! Hasta luego Mexico, voy a regrasar prontisimooooo.
