Visit Cuernavaca, Morelos on a budget in 2024, an authentic getaway from Mexico City!
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Cuernavaca is one of the bigger cities in Mexico known for being the city of eternal spring. Due to its unique location in a semi-tropical, high altitude valley, you can enjoy warm weather (and quite a bit of humidity) in the middle of the country. From a stunning colonial center, dense public gardens, and a rich pre and post colonial history, this city has it all!
The city is located in the small state of Morelos about 1.5 hours south of Mexico City. Unfortunately, it has some of the highest crime rates in the country, which is probably part of why it isn't as common among international travelers. If you can keep your wits about you and avoid finding yourself in a dangerous area or out alone at night, you will probably have a perfectly pleasant experience and maybe love Cuernavaca as much as I did!
This is an extra special post for me because I got to explore Cuernavaca with my boyfriend and my mom, who studied abroad in Cuernavaca when she was my age! I grew up listening to her stories of beautiful Cuernavaca and it still far exceeded my expectations.
GETTING THERE
Depending on where you are coming from in Mexico, you have a handful of ways to easily access Cuernavaca on transport. The city itself isn't big, so once you're in the city limits you're looking at paying 60-100 pesos for a taxi or Uber ($3-6 USD).
By plane
Cuernavaca has an international airport relatively close to the centro. Mexico City is so close though that you probably better off flying into Mexico City then taking a direct bus from the airport to Cuernavaca with Primera Plus.
By bus or rideshare
Cuernavaca has bus routes running all around the country, including big cities like Mexico City, Guadalajara, Puebla, etc. If you are coming from Mexico City, be sure to head towards Terminal Sur which will have buses leaving to Cuernavaca frequently (2 hours, 160 pesos).
If you are savvy, you may be able to catch a Sprinter van / combi service between major cities which will be half the cost, but you need to spend some time researching on Facebook. Blablacar is another common option in Mexico for rideshares, but use at your own risk.
WHERE TO STAY
Whoops, I kinda fumbled on this one, so learn from my mistakes. I booked an "entire apartment on Airbnb" which was too good to be true for the price, and we showed up instead to a hostel with shared rooms.
You definitely want to stay in the centro historico, and even then be careful if you go out at night because of the crime I mentioned. Your best options are gonna be bed and breakfast or budget hotels, as there are few to no hostels in the city center. Casa Frida or Hotel Catedral sound like the best deal and best located locations to stay/
THINGS TO DO
Centro: As with any Mexican city, you gotta start in the heart of the action. Visit Plaza de Armas (the state capitol building) and Jardín Juarez where you will find the iconic letters spelling out Cuernavaca. Just a block and a half away, you can't miss the very old and beautiful catedral and it's accompanying gardens. Although the traffic can get a little gritty in the centro, it is all walkable and small, so you can take your time.
If you're there on a weekend, you'll likely come across dozens of booksellers and artisans selling their goods in the street as well. It is so charming to stop for a coffee on a plant-filled patio, then shop your way through the vendors under the Cuernavaca sunshine. Think of it as a similar vibe to Guanajuato, if you have had the pleasure to visit!
Jardín Borda is a romantic spot that's been around hundreds of years, also right in the centro! It was built in a French style when Spanish royalty lived down here in the 1700s and has held up beautifully over the years. It is a lovely stroll for a couple hours to enjoy the overgrown vegetation, and the long reflection pool where you can rest and take it all in. Entrance is 50 pesos.
Museo Regional de los Pueblos de Morelos (Palacio de Cortés): while today it is a museum, this big building is a can't-miss part of history. This is the old palace of Hernan Cortes that remains as a beckoning structure right in the heart of the city. It has a sad history, as it was intentionally built over an Aztec site to assert New Spain's rule over the indigenous people
Mercado de Artesanías: right below the Palacio, the main artisan market is a great place to buy some silver or another artisan good you've been eyeing. The silver capital of Mexico (Taxco) is right nearby, so you can find some good prices for quality silver if you know what to look for!
Museo Robert Brady: Also within two blocks of the center, this appears like a fun little stop and a funky way to switch up your day. While I didn't get the chance to visit, this museum is a collection of the American artist Brady and displays interesting interior design.
Salto de San Antón: A waterfall in the middle of a city!? Literally, yes. Cuernavaca's distinct setting means that most of rainwater runs off through these natural waterways called barrancos. One of the best barrancos formed a waterfall just a 15 min walk from the centro. Thanks to my mom who scouted out this location since I didn't get a chance! It is quite polluted with trash, but still very beautiful.
Teopanzolco Archaelogical Zone: you will wanna hop in a 10 minute cab ride to get to this prehispanic site. This civilization belonged to the Tlahuicas that inhabited the Morelos area, and today only a few excavated pyramids are viewable to visitors. However, there are probably much more extensive ruins that lie below the surrounding urban development!
Parque Melchor Ocampo: this hidden gem just outside the main bus station is like a jungle in the middle of the city! It is so inviting for a stroll, or to sit down and write and read.
Las Mañanitas: if you want to splurge on one thing on your trip, grab a drink and appetizer at this beautiful outdoor restaurant. Peacocks and parrots sit in the tranquil garden setting while mariachi groups go around playing for guests. It is a high price point, but a great stop to rest in the middle of a warm day.
DAY TRIPS
If you have more days in your itinerary, Cuernavaca is a fabulous place to base yourself to access more nature and hidden gems.
Las Estacas is a natural swimming area that was the set of the old live action Tarzan movies! Enjoy the spring-like weather and bright blue pools. I didn't make it out here but here's a good blog to get you started.
Xochicalco is an impressive archaelogical site with pyramids and Mesoamerican carvings about 45 minutes south of the city center.
Tepoztlán: this pueblo mágico is a popular day trip from Mexico City as well. It is one of the most stunning pueblos I've seen, with a difficult but short hike leading up to a viewpoint and small pyramid! There is plenty to do here to entertain you for one day or one night, but don't do what I did and avoid going on a Sunday at all costs. Surrounding by so much vegetation and colorful buildings, I can only imagine how beautiful it is mid-week without the crowds.
Lagunas de Zempoala: directly outside the northern city limits, the "place of 7 waters" will transport you to a woodsy, magical place. With plenty of hiking, boating, and camping and easy access, this could also be an awesome weekend getaway from CDMX.
Taxco, Guerrero: The iconic pueblo mágico and Mexican silver capital, Taxco is one of the places that tops my list! A trip to Taxco and Cuernavaca is commonly combined as a long day trip from Mexico City with tours such as this one starting at 1100 pesos ($60 USD).
All in all, I was so charmed by Cuernavaca- from the delightful weather, friendly locals, cute cafes, and impressive history. This has now become one of my favorite and more underrated spots in Mexico :) Feel free to comment if you have any questions or more recommendations!
