top of page

Sayulita Bonita: visiting Mexico's Surfy Pueblo Magico



If you Google Mexico surf towns, you will also see this little gem pop up along Puerto Escondido and a few other hotspots. Not too many moons ago, a young surfer version of myself watched a few vlogs of Sayulita, Mexico, and manifested the town as a future surf destination... . Since then, I've been to Sayulita total of FIVE times because this place is super accessible and easy, making it the quickest surf getaway I can get while I live landlocked in Mexico for two years :,) I even convinced my family to come out here and celebrate Christmas together, as it's a great destination for families, couples, or solo travelers!


Sayulita is one of 177 Pueblos Magicos scattered throughout the country. It really is just that-- quaint, vibrant colors, high energy, and entirely walkable (like it's only two main streets). Many families visit from the US because it is just a quick flight to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco and then an hour drive north. For me, this makes the place less desirable just because the prices are higher and the town feels more American than Mexican. Regardless it is still a special place to spend a week and I would go here any day over Cabo or the like. It is a great way to get a more small town Mexico feel but still have 21st century luxuries like A/C, iced coffees, and fast wifi.


GETTING THERE


Sayulita (and its neighboring resort city of Puerto Vallarta) are a little more isolated from the normal tourist route in Mexico. The coast of Jalisco and Nayarit, known as the Riviera Nayarit, is one of the most touristic coasts of Mexico, however it is sandwiched by the states of Colima and Sinaloa which are not very safe for foreigners. Because of this, backpackers often skip Sayulita as it is out of the way.


BY BUS


However, if you are already visiting Guadalajara, Sayulita is about 4.5 hours away and you can easily book a bus or Blablacar to your destination. A bus ticket is 700-800 pesos, or you can find a rideshare for about 500 pesos.


BY PLANE


Cue "Breakdown" by Jack Johnson

If you aren't going anywhere near Guadalajara , your best bet is probably to fly into Puerto Vallarta and save a lot of time on your journey. Once at the airport, getting to Sayulita is a piece of cake! Simply walk over the footbridge just outside the airport and hop on the green and white Compostela bus. A bus for Sayulita seems to be passing every 10-15 minutes from 7 AM to 10 PM. If you wait on the bus stop, will probably be surrounded by other backpackers or locals trying to catch the same bus.


**Make sure to take out money from the ATM at the airport because tourist towns often run out of cash, and then try to break larger bills in order to have the 55 pesos (3 USD) for the 1.5 hour bus ride.*

As with a lot of bus experiences, this one is an adventure! My first time on here, the bus wheel popped and we waited in 90 degree heat on the side of the highway for a bit, but we were on our way soon after!


BY UBER OR TAXI


You may be able to score an affordable Uber from the airport to Sayulita depending on your luck. One night that we got in after 10 pm, I got an Uber driver to take us the 1 hour journey for just 550 pesos. An airport taxi will totally rip you off (1000-1500 pesos), so that should be your last resort.


WHERE TO STAY


Sayulita's dorms are pricey by Mexican standards, with most of them starting at $15-20 and up! Because of this, you will want to book early. You will want to stay within 4-5 blocks from the beach, because then the tourist zone ends.


My first visit to this town in 2021, I stayed one week total in Sayulita in the best hostel I have ever, ever been to, an all women's hostel called My Sister's House. It has the cutest aesthetic, free yoga and workout classes everyday on the terrace, and just the calmest vibes. I felt so safe and every other gal here was also traveling alone. Bonus: they have some super duper beat-up but fun Wavestorms that you can borrow too!


I've also tried Casa Pepe hostel which is a big although decent hostel with a pool, fun social activities, and lots and lots of dorms.


If you are traveling with a bigger group, you may want to check Airbnb instead or even book a hotel like Puerto Sayulita. Despite being a nice hotel, this actually turns out to be one of the cheapest options for a group of 3-4, it's just a 10 minute walk to the beach instead of a 2 minute walk!



SURFING SAYULITA


To summarize the surf scene here: it's definitely for longboarders!


If you are looking to take surf lessons and start on small waves, Sayulita is one of the best places to do that in Mexico. Longboarding typically means riding an 8 or 9 foot long board which is more floaty and best for beginners. In comparison, violent, fast waves like in Puerto Escondido are better for shortboarding. Although I am more of a shortboarder by preference, I have no problem hopping on a fun foam board and enjoying the calm waves in this town.


The main break at Sayulita is directly in front of the beach and party zone, and you will know it because surfers are sitting out in the water. The wave breaks here because it is coral reef underneath, so you need to religiously avoid stepping down and touching the bottom. Or else you will get an urchin in your foot (it's happened to me!) The wave is best at low tide, as one hour within high tide it barely breaks and it comes all the way up to the beach. While it definitely can get crowded, my secret has always been riding the smaller waves on the inside and avoid the competition at the main peak :)



Beginners will want to sit just south of the main reef break, in a more gentle area where there are more predictable white water waves. Ask any surf shop for their recommendation if you aren't sure where to station yourself.


I have rarely seen Sayulita waves get over head high (1 meter), which means it's good for learners even if you aren't too confident in open water yet. Renting a surfboard in Sayulita will put you back a few dollars everyday. Most surf shops rent you 150 pesos/ hour, but if you go with Patricia's Surf Shop right on the beach, she will give you 150 pesos for two hours!


WHERE TO EAT


Eating on the street in Sayulita is a given as most restaurants have outdoor seating that spills onto the bustling roads. Of course, you can save money by prepping your own food at your hostel, but I find it hard to do that with the temptation of all the delicious prepared food just steps away.


Here are some of my favorite eats that I had in Sayulita:


  1. Chocolate dipped bananas! There are two good places right on the main road for bananas at around $1.50 USD, great snack to stay cool.

  2. Chilaquiles breakfast! Oh, but this is the cheapest, most filling meal in Mexico. I found chilaquiles of similar yumminess and price at both Yeikame and across the street.

  3. Alquimista was a wonderful brunch spot right next to our hostel, a little off the beaten path but so healthy and raw ingredients. Really enjoyed the beverages here and veggie options.

  4. For dinner, Mary's or Emilianos are some of the more authentic Mexican meals you can find in town.

  5. If you're feeling Italian, Little Italy is so scrumptious and has delicious pizzas, pastas, and bread.


Some cool cafes to check out are Yah-Yah and Another One, both with wifi and A/C if that's what you're looking for ;)


GOING OUT AND DRINKS



I've never had a proper night out clubbing here, as it's just a chill beach town and the vibe is more about having a cerveza on the beach or sipping a margarita at sunset. Frankly, where I have seen a bit more live music, the price on shots and cocktails is quite exorbitant. The cheapest way to enjoy a night out is to buy beers for 21 pesos a pop at the corner store then sip them on the beach, in the street, or at your place.


Chances are, if you head out to the streets after 8pm, you will find live music and people dancing on the streets, which there goes your free entertainment! We've danced cumbia and salsa on the streets, in the rain!


THINGS TO DO


Besides the eating and surfing, the town is pretty simple and small but you can spend your days at the main beach -- just know the water is quite polluted from the river mouth. I also tried my hand at snorkeling right where the waves break over the reef but it's a bit sketchy.


Playa Los Muertos is a small rocky cove and beach with lots of locals. It's called Los Muertos because you walk past the town cemetery to get there. This is a nice way to spend an afternoon if you want to get away from the constant music blasting on Sayulita's main beach. It's a cool 20 minute walk from town, exploring a different side of Sayulita.



Playa Malpaso and a jungle border the northern side of Sayulita. This beach is accessible by walking through a pretty jungle for about 20 minutes, and again makes a great escape from the crowds! You can read all about the hike on my San Pancho blog post.


Visit San Pancho. It's another surf pueblo just 5km north, and it is a little more mellow than Sayulita but just as boho and artsy. The wave is a bit faster and more punchy if you wanna try surfing a different style. You can get here on the bus, taxi, or by hiking through the jungle!


Hike Cerro de Mono. But don't try going alone! This hike is becoming increasingly popular with tourists, but I went alone with a group of girlfriends and we had a scary situation with the local dogs that live between the properties on the hike. (TLDR: I saw my life flash before my eyes with the German Shepard). If you go with a local guide or a guided tour with your hostel group, that is going to be your best bet to do this viewpoint and enjoy the jungle.


Visit Punta Mita / Corral de Risco. While the Punta Mita peninsula is most known for upscale resorts, it also has an affordable little town where you can explore for the day and surf another fun fun wave called Stinky's. If you are a surfer and wanna try another wave, La Lancha and Burros are also accessible on the bus and it takes about an hour from Sayulita. Going on your own is a huge savings! Sayulita surf camps sell a daytrip to La Lancha for 1000 pesos and you can do it for much cheaper



Overall, Sayulita is wonderful for a short visit-- it did indeed seem that many people would just drop in for a weekend! I'll definitely be back someday on bigger swell, but I know it won't stay so small and cheap forever, so it's good to get there while you can!






bottom of page