Nestled about 2 hours north of CDMX, you will find a wonderful anomaly to the hot and dry semidesert with the pueblo mágico of Amealco, Queretaro. Instead of being dominated by hot sun and cacti, the small city of Amealco is surrounded by lush oak and pine forests and has cool cloudy weather thanks to being at about 8600 ft above sea level. Amealco is a very charming, unique and traditional place to visit in Mexico and it warrants at least a daytrip or an overnight! If you want to get the most lively visit, definitely go on a SUNDAY which is market day and family day.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
This is the coldest place I have yet to know in Mexico (which still doesn't mean too cold by any standards) and the locals agree as they are often bundled up in their parkas when the temperature drops below 60ºF. I have gotten to know Amealco a little more in depth because my friends are living there, and it has been really nice getting to feel like a part of the larger community.
How did this town come to be famous? More or less because of this cute little doll named Lele, which you have probably seen on souvenirs if you have visited any part of Mexico. What many people don’t know is that “Lele” has her origins in the rural communities of Amealco, and to this day continues to be a key source of income for the many indigenous Otomí women of the region. It is not uncommon to hear the native language of Otomí (Hñähñu) being spoken in the market, and you can also spot the traditional, colorful outfit being worn by many elderly women. I happened to time my first visit with the Festival de la Muñeca, the most touristic event of the year with literally hundreds of doll vendors!
SEE THE CENTRO
The main church on the town square is the most picturesque spot and the heart of the municipality, and you can enjoy some time wandering around the plaza and shopping. At one side of the plaza is the Museo de la Muñeca where you can learn more about the history and story of Amealco. There are some incredibly cheap thrift stores around and I can attribute much of my wardrobe to the shops here!
WHERE TO STAY
While Amealco does make a perfect little day trip from Queretaro, there are some humble little hotels and cabins on Booking.com or Airbnb if you want to stay a night or two. I have happened to stay in Hotel Muralla on a couple occasions for work. While technically in Amealco, it's a 30 minute drive from the city center and has a slightly higher price point BUT it is a famous spot because it is themed with the Mexican Revolution and actors perform re-enactments for guests. The hotel also has a pool and a big outdoor area where they offer things like horseriding, ziplining, and family friendly activities.
Hotel la Muralla
GET OUTDOORS
Amealco is loved for its forests and cool climate so it can make for a fun eco tourism destination. Throughout the year it is good for hiking, and in the rainy season its famous for mushroom hunters! If you plan on hiking anywhere in Mexico, get the app Wikiloc which is much more commonly use here than AllTrails.
From the town center, the most famous and accessible hike, Cerro de la Cruz, is a short 2 mile out and back that will take you to just about 9500 ft elevation letting you out into a pretty panorama. This hike is well traveled and thus works to hike, run, or even mountain bike.
Another fun hike is Cerro de los Gallos, which are some red dunes that are an easy hike. This trail is not marked but you can visit the nearby Cerro de los Gallos park for free and ask for more information there.
If you want a bit more of a challenge and have a car, you can also attempt Peña de Ñado (aka Cerro del Pelón), a roundtrip journey of 10 miles ending up at 11,000 feet. It starts in the outskirts of Amealco and crosses into the State of Mexico where you arrive to the view of the monolith at the highest point. I personally did the hike after 2 days of food sickness on an empty stomach, so if I can do it and enjoy it, you have no complaints lol.
HIKING TIP: If you want to do lengthier, less labeled hikes in Amealco, Queretaro, or in Mexico in general (or bike rides!), I can’t stress Facebook groups enough as a tool for finding guided hikes and trips + transportation. Mexico RUNS on Facebook and for those that don’t have the local knowledge of the trails, you can normally find guided hikes already being offered for just 100-200 pesos ($5 - 10 USD)
EAT AND DRINK:
For my cafe lovers, the best spot in Amealco is Casa Mähuí where you can get yummy pizza or pasta and your choice of coffees. Every other Sunday there is an environmental community that hosts a little fair with some kind of workshop or speaker and a bunch of local vendors! Another cozy option for a coffee and wifi is Cafe Rustico off the main plaza. And when you’re feeling the chilly weather in the evenings, I love the Churrería Jalisco right on the main square, which has the most delicious tasty beignets with powdered sugar. For just 40 pesos (2 USD) you get 6 of them!
Have you tried pulque?
This fermented beverage comes from agua miel, the liquid of agave/maguey plants and is a white, tangy drink. Careful because the alcohol content isn’t always obvious (could be anything from a light beer to a strong one!) and its easy to get a bit taken away…There are a couple vibed out pulquerias in town, although be aware that cultural customs still look at women a bit oddly in these spaces. Check out Pulqueria Don Frederico for a tamer, more welcoming environment. Other pulquerías and cantina’s in town are great for a wild west saloon experience, with all the pros and cons you might imagine. The restaurants in this small city don’t have the most ideal schedules (the open late and close early) but you can at least count that these places will be open midday on a weekend.
In sum, while Amealco is not the fanciest pueblo magico in the region, it is very special to have the blending of Mexican mestizo culture with the Otomí culture seen in their art, economy, and in the everyday dress of many of the local women. When I think of this pueblo, the first things that come to mind are trees and colors, two things that are very abundant in the town center and in the surroundings. If you are looking to explore the lesser known corners of Mexico, this place is still not totally on the radar for foreigners so you will be visiting at a special time. Enjoy and wanna give a shoutout to my boy Ransom for helping me write and revise this post :)
