Read on for everything about surfing and surf culture in Puerto Escondido, from one surfer to another aspiring surfer! To read more about the destination beyond the surf and beaches, be sure to check out my guide to Puerto Escondido.
ON THE SURFER's RADAR
The city of Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico at 45,000 people has blown up in population in the last twenty years, but its on the world map because it’s home to one of the most famous and dangerous waves in the world, Zicatela!
This wave is often called the "Mexican Pipeline," aka it resembles the iconic Pipeline wave on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Famed big wave surfers like Greg Long, Jamie O'Brien, and Nathan and John Florence are big international surfers that make a stop at Zicatela every year. But don't worry! Most everyday surfers do not surf THE big scary wave, instead they still to the calmer point breaks throughout town.
One thing is for sure, Puerto is a surf town through and through— to get to the break on the opposite side of the town, I hail a cab, stick the surfboard through the passenger seat window, and tuck a few pesos into my soggy swimsuit to pay the taxi guy. If you are a little more sophisticated than that, you can rent a scooter motorbike for about $20 USD/day. Or if you're cheaper, you can hail a colectivo on the main road and hop into the truck for just 10-15 pesos.
WHEN TO GO
If you want comfortable temperatures and mellow waves, you will want to stick to the winter months, from November- February. Once spring hits, all of Mexico gets really hot and dry!
From June to September, it's hot and the waves get massive until late summer. Likewise, the sun is so strong so close to the equator, so you are more limited by the hours you can be comfortably outside + surfing. (For reference, I would stay mostly indoors from 8:30 AM till after 5PM to avoid heat stroke).
For a destination like Puerto Escondido, traveling in the shoulder season (Feb-March or Sep- October) may be your best bet, when the waves are still somewhat consistent, there are less tourists, and the sun is not quite as suffocating.
WHERE TO STAY
Puerto Escondido has a long layout, so where you situate yourself is important if you are trying to maximize your time surfing in the best conditions. If you’re staying for a short while, I think La Punta is the place to be. It has Bali vibes (so I’m told) with a lot of cafes and party scene.
For a calmer, longer visit, Bacocho is a really chilled neighborhood with more beaches nearby (Bacocho, Coral, Carrizalillo).
You can also situate yourself along the Zicatela strip which has the famous pro wave, some dance clubs, and near the town market.
And for the most economical stay (but not walking distance from the waves), you can stay in the heart of downtown Puerto Escondido -- we found a room for 16 bucks a night!
SURF SPOTS
Whether you are a beginner, intermediate, or expert surfer, there is probably a wave for you in Puerto Escondido area. Unfortunately, the water is extremely crowded because there are few accessible and safe surf spots and lots of eager surfers. I hail from some of the most crowded surf breaks on earth, and I still think Puerto Escondido's situation is dire.
Therefore, basic surf etiquette is important as ever here, and you will definitely need to swallow your pride at moments because there are aggressive surfers that don't play by the rules. And then the local surf instructors get very territorial while they teach their lessons. To help mitigate that, surfing in early morning, before sunrise, is gonna be your best shot at getting waves. Alternatively, go at midday around noon or 1pm when the surf lessons take their break. Trust me on this one!
Now that you know what to expect from the local dynamic, here's all about the spots:
1....Zicatela: the XXL big wave spot.
If the swell is up, it is pretty hard to miss this beautiful A-frame wave, sitting right in front of the Zicatela tourist strip and beach bars. I've never had any intention to surf the infamous wave, but it is still great to watch as a spectator.
If you are watching, I especially recommend heading out in early morning (dawn patrol), when the water is the most still and the sun is not yet strong, because this is when the amateur and pro surfers get their best rides. Intermediate surfers may feel comfortable trying Zicatela on a tiny day (I mean literally 1-2 feet forecast), but regardless should be extremely cautious of the strong rip current on this spot.
2. Playa Carrizalillo: the best beginner option
On the north/west part of the coast, Carrizalillo is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico! It's bright blue water cove and gentle breaking wave are a world of difference from what's just down the road. This beach is also better for families and swimming, but you do need to walk down a set of 100+ steps to reach the beach.
The wave only really breaks at low to mid tide, so keep that in mind as you time your surf session. It is a left point break and is just a short paddle out from the beach. It doesn't hold the same power as the Zicatela waves because it is in a sheltered cove, so I really recommend first time surfers take their surf lessons here. I also like going here when the waves are huge and too big for me at other beaches. There are surf shops on the street leading up to the beach which can rent you gear and give you instruction.
On huge days, the size was the same as Punta but waves were super mushy, so I probably caught some of my biggest rides ever (at the time) but it still felt safe.This break is far from world class but if you can’t hit the other beaches when swell comes to town, its the next best option. You may be a little disappointed because the cove itself is only a few hundred meters ride, so even your longest wave will not be too long.
3. La Punta: for the intermediate surfer.
A beautiful left point break on the south edge of town, it picks up a lot of the same swell as Zicatela and forms a beautiful curling shape. I really appreciated the big swells in June 2021, because they challenged me to get on waves I never would dream of surfing at home! As my first opportunity to surf a left point break, I was able to learn a ton of skills on my backside and get comfortable on bigger surf.
If you can deal with the crowds and practice a lot of patience, you can get some excellent long rides at the Punta. The closer you sit into the rock and take off point, the higher priority you can get. I prefer to hang out in the inside and grab the leftovers, because the lineup is just too darn competitive!
While you can learn on this wave and there are plenty of surf instructors in the neighborhood, I wouldn't recommend it because the overcrowded conditions are hazardous and every day there are accidents with people (skilled and novice) crashing into each other. That being said, I did teach my boyfriend to surf this wave on smaller days and he loved it!
The first days we spent in the Punta side of town we didn’t even get in the water! For part of it, it was just too big, but on the other hand I was also so nervous to get out there just from observing the strong undertow. When I finally paddled out (I didn’t make it the first time!) and caught my first wave, the stoke really began. .
4. BEYOND PUERTO ESCONDIDO:
although I have yet to go, you won't want to miss Chacahua Lagoon, a surf village 2 hours farther north. There are also a handful of more local spots nearby and I'm sure you can trip out to them after connecting with local surfers that share their waves and intel with you :)
GETTING A SURFBOARD
Chances are, you serious surfers are going to either 1) travel in with your boards or 2) buy a local board to travel around Mexico with. I bought a kinda pricey $200 USD used shortboard on Facebook marketplace when I arrived and turned around and sold it for much less.
If you're only in town for a few days, I recommend renting by the hour or day with one of the surf shops at La Punta or Playa Carrizalillo. Rates vary depending on the season and board availability, but I could get a shortboard for 100 pesos per 1.5 hours.
All in all, as my first proper surf trip back in 2021, I was so humbled by how inviting the local surfers were! I got to watch a two-day competition out at Carrizalillo for the local youth, and the young ones were the real MVPs. And not to mention surfing with tiny kids, probably 3 or 4, who would get pushed into these massive beasts of waves at La Punta. I was so stoked by the love and kindness towards me as a solo traveling surfer, which helped me forget some of the aggression I saw in the water. I tried my best to sit back and watch the first few days to gain the respect and I think it did just the trick.
Overall, the surf in Puerto is consistent enough year round that you should be able catch waves somewhere in town everyday!
Okay that’s the surfy overview of Puerto, a more wholistic overview of the town here.
Something I missed or something you loved? comment below!
